Chez Papa

Chez Papa

French. Cultivating the warm, friendly and appropriately boisterous atmosphere found in bustling family-run bistros in the South of France, Chez Papa Bistro is a unique San Francisco dining spot when craving the authentic Provencal experience. Innovative interpretations of the classics of French cuisine have earned this French restaurant critical acclaim. The wine list represents California and the wine-growing regions of France with many selections available by the bottle and the glass.

Chef Ola Fendert, loved locally for his exec chef work at Plouf, opened a cosmopolitan little corner bistro on Potrero Hill with Plouf cohorts Jocelyn Bulow and Marc-Henri Sempere earlier this year. The small, lightly industrial space packs 38 diners, a few bar patrons, and about a dozen al fresco foodies for lunch and dinner every day. Hip to Chez Papa's buzz, citoyens travel citywide for French Provencal cuisine like lamb daube ($19), beef tartar ($9), and tart Tatin ($6). Sardined next to a neighboring deuce, we reveled in Marseilles-style mussels in a tomato-garlic broth ($8), roasted chicken with olives, lemon and red chard ($16), a gorgeous steak with pistou coulis ($24), and a mandatory side of shoestring frites with aioli ($4). There is a slight factory feel to the place, thanks to rapid turnover and quick service, so don't expect to linger over your Lillet on the rocks. Perfect for a quick, urbane meal before a night on the town.

- Excerpt from review by Tracie Broom